GOA FESTIVALS SIGHTSEEING

GOA FESTIVALS

# Bonderam
 
By August, the fields brim with life. A drive through Divar takes you through long stretches of paddy crops ready for reaping. In such blissful environs you would be surprised that once mock battles were staged by the villagers and boundaries drawn to protect their fields. When questions arose on the method to demarcate boundary lines, the Portuguese government came up with the solution of using colourful bandeiras or flags.That’s where the festival got its name. And it still continues to be celebrated by two wards: Sao Piedade and Malar. Today this festival has achieved international fame and the day is prominently slotted in travel itineraries well in advance.
 
The day’s events begin with the customary flag off before the procession , recalling old traditions, makes its way to the various wards along the boundary lines. In the old days, the celebration was restricted to the flag parade and playful battles with pop-guns (fotash). But with mischief makers overusing the fotash, its use was banned. But with the float parade making its way into the celebrations, the festival grew in scale and attracted huge crowds from all parts of Goa, the rest of the country and the world.While the main festival is held in the last week of August, Malar kicks off the Bonderam celebrations a week before. Though smaller in scale , it still retains its authentic charm. The preparations begin weeks before with youngsters practicing their moves and the elders getting other arrangements in place.
 
The floats are carefully and artistically pieced together by the locals.Two years ago, Marius Fernandes, Goa’s festekar , introduced the Bonderachi pasoi, a heritage walk through the wards that allows guests to meet with the locals, listen to their old stories and eat local food. The entertainment program continues once the group gets back to the main venue.The next day, the first corn is cut and offered for blessings to the gods
 
# Ghadanchi Jatra
The unique festival of deity Sri Dev Bhabreshwar is held annually at Khobrawado, Calangute in North Goa. This festival is famously known as “Kelyanchi” or “Ghadanchi Jatra” (Festival of Banana Bunches), as devotees offer an entire bunch of bananas to this deity. The shrine is located on the famous beach stretch between Calangute & Baga.In a day, over 2500 bunches of bananas are offered to the deity. These bunches are then tied to a make-do wooden frame, over the deity, creating an aesthetic roof of banana bunches. The additional bunches (raw or ripe) are auctioned, every evening.This festival is celebrated every year in the month of February attracting thousands of locals and tourists.
 
# Goa Carnaval 2023
 
The Goa Carnaval, also known as Carnaval, is a vibrant and colourful festival that takes place annually in the state of Goa, India. Today, the festival has become one of the most popular and well-known cultural events in India, attracting visitors from all over the world.
The festival typically takes place in the weeks leading up to Lent and features a range of events and activities that showcase the unique heritage and traditions of Goa. These include parades, music performances, dance competitions, food festivals, and cultural displays.
The highlight of Carnaval is the parade, which winds through the streets of major Goan towns and cities across the state. The parade features a variety of floats, dancers, and musicians, all dressed in elaborate costumes. The procession is led by King Momo, a mythical figure who is said to be the king of Carnaval.
Carnaval is a time of joy, celebration, and cultural expression, and has become an important part of the Goan calendar. During the festival, the streets of Goa come alive with a festive atmosphere that is unlike anything else in India.
Visitors can expect to enjoy traditional Goan cuisine, including seafood delicacies and refreshing drinks that the region is well known for. The festival is a wonderful opportunity to experience the rich and diverse culture of Goa and to celebrate with locals and visitors alike.
 
# History Of Carnaval
 
The history of Carnaval dates back to the Portuguese colonial era when the festival was introduced to celebrate the arrival of the season of Lent. The word ‘Carnaval’ is derived from the Latin word ‘carne vale’, which means ‘farewell to meat’, as Lent is a period of fasting and abstinence.
Goa was a colony of Portugal for over 450 years, and during this time, the Portuguese influence on the culture and traditions of Goa was significant. The first recorded instance of Carnaval celebrations in Goa dates back to the mid-18th century, and the festival was known as ‘Entrudo’ at the time.
During the festival, people would indulge in merrymaking and excess, with street parties, feasts, and dancing. The tradition of throwing coloured powder and water at each other also became a popular part of the festivities.
After India gained independence from British rule in 1947, Goa remained under Portuguese control until 1961. It was during this time that the modern-day version of the Goa Carnaval began to take shape. It was modelled after the Rio Carnaval of Brazil by a local musician named Timoteo Fernandes to attract tourists.
The festival was seen as an opportunity to celebrate Goan culture and traditions, and it was also a way for the local people to protest against the Portuguese regime. Today, it has evolved into a major cultural event celebrated by the various different communities of the state.
 
# Dates And Locations
 
The Carnaval takes place annually in the month of February or March, depending on the date of Easter. The festival typically lasts for four days. For the year 2023, the Carnaval will take on the 18th, 19th, 20th and 21st of February.
The Goa Carnaval is celebrated in towns and cities across the state, but the main centre of the festivities is the capital city of Panaji. The Carnaval parade in Panaji is the largest and most elaborate, and it draws thousands of visitors.
In addition to Panaji, other major towns and cities across Goa also hold their own Carnaval celebrations. Other cities the Carnaval will be held at include Margao, Vasco da Gama, Mapusa, Porvorim and Morjim. The Carnaval celebrations are also held in many villages and small towns across the state, with each community adding its unique flavour and style to the festivities.
 
# Chikhal Kalo
 
Marcel, a charming village situated in Goa, India, is renowned for its stunning natural scenery, abundant foliage, and tranquil ambience. Nestled amidst captivating landscapes, the village serves as a serene sanctuary, offering a peaceful respite from the bustling city life. Despite its small size, Marcel provides a captivating glimpse into the traditional Goan way of life, presenting a serene getaway for its visitors.
 
Within the village, an enthralling traditional festivity called Chikhal Kalo takes place, translating to “Mud Bath.” This celebration pays homage to the profound bond shared between the farming community of Goa and our nurturing Mother Earth.
 
Chikhal Kalo, a religious festival exclusive to the village of Marcel in Goa, is a rare combination of devotion and enjoyment. It occurs annually on the 11th day of the Hindu month of Ashadh, held within the expansive grounds of the Devki Krishna temple. The arrival of the monsoon ensures that the temple premises are transformed into a muddy terrain, which becomes a vital component of the ensuing excitement.
 
In addition to lively dancing, the festival features traditional games like chendu fali (resembling cricket) and gilli danda. The slippery mud surface induces participants to repeatedly tumble and become coated in mud—an integral part of the ritual, hence the name Chikhal Kalo. Embracing the essence of the tradition, individuals eagerly immerse themselves in the joyous muddiness, reveling in the experience.
 
Join us for the vibrant and exhilarating Chikhal Kalo Festival, a cherished celebration of tradition and joy, taking place on the 29th of June at the magnificent Devki Krishna temple in Marcel, Goa. Get ready for a day filled with devotional celebrations, cultural experiences, and unforgettable memories!
 
Date: June 28th to 30th
Venue: Devki Krishna Temple, Marcel, Goa
 
# Highlights of the Chikhal Kalo Festival
 
a.    Tradition and Culture: Immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of Goa as we honor the deep bond between the farming community and Mother Earth.
b.    Devotional Celebrations: Witness the enchanting rituals and ceremonies performed at the Devki Krishna temple, infusing the atmosphere with spirituality and reverence.
c.    Joyous Mud Bath: Discover the thrill of Chikhal Kalo, the festival’s centerpiece. Engage in the exhilarating tradition of playing in the mud, where the temple grounds transform into a playground of joy and merriment.
d.    Cultural Performances: Delight in captivating cultural performances showcasing the vibrant arts and traditions of Goa. From mesmerizing folk dances to soulful music, experience the rich tapestry of Goan culture come alive on stage.
e.    Traditional Games: Test your skills and have fun with activities like chendu fali (similar to cricket) and gilli danda, creating joyful moments of friendly competition.
f.     Delectable Cuisine: Savor traditional dishes prepared with love and care, tantalizing your taste buds with the vibrant spices and unique ingredients of Goa.
g.    Community Bonding: Celebrate togetherness and connect with the warm-hearted people of Marcel as the entire community comes together for this festive extravaganza.
 
# Chorotsav
 
The spring festival is something to be experienced in villages across the length and breadth of Goa. It is the time of year when villagers settled elsewhere return to their roots to participate in the festive season. Many villages are known for some unique feature of their own and are identified by these singular festivals.Amongst the many festivals and rituals, Chorotsav, held during Shigmo or Holi in other parts of the country, is one that spreads joy to the villagers of Zarme in Mauxi, about 6 kms from Valpoi. Yet another place known for this festival is Caranzol in Savordem in Sattari taluka.
 
The festival forms a chapter in the village’s history. The story revolves around some youths who were killed by the villagers as they were mistaken to be robbers (Chors), though no one knows the exact history of this age-old practice. The story goes that in the past, people commuted through the forest for work or to collect produce from nature’s bounty. They travelled from village to village from the foothills, climbing across the Western Ghats. During one such daily routine, youths from a neighbouring village who were suspected to have commited robbery were killed. The distraught families of the youth, in search of their loved ones, learn of the tragic fate that had befallen them. The villagers then understand their folly and in order not invite a curse on themselves, repent over their grave error. The villagers of these two places play out an act as punishment. The participating youths are called Chors. In all, eight youths participate in Zarme while a similar act is played by nine youths in Caranzol.
 
It is quite a task before the actual event begins as the preparations take a while and the act folds up within 10 to 20 minutes in front of the Saptamatrika temple. In this risky operation performed on a full moon night and held at a sacred place called Chavatho, four youths are buried in a pit with only their heads above the surface. Four others have their heads buried below the ground with the rest of the body exposed on the surface with swords in their hands. A large audience gathers to witness this event with excitement as the drumbeats fall silent and the Chors are revealed to the enthusiastic crowd.
 
These dramatics are best viewed at Caranzol in front of the Kuldevta temple where seven Chors are buried with one raised on a spear and another lying on a platform wearing a garland of leaves. The event begins after an invocation near a place called Wadakade (meaning ‘near a Banyan plant’).Chorotsav is a festival during Shigmo that reminds one of the ancestral practice of repentance and one which is never missed by the regulars. It is also a signature event in the historic village of Mauxi, also known for its rock art.The place, about 66 kms from Panaji, is easily reached via Valpoi.
 
# Divzam
 
Goa is not defined just by what’s seen along the coast. Its rich traditions define Goa’s socio-cultural heritage.Casual visitors may not know of this heritage. While a festival like Diwali is widely celebrated, Goa has another unique celebration that is also associated with light. It’s known as Divzam. This folk tradition can be seen during the various temple zatras held across the State. A divzam is a special lamp, now made in metal.People of select communities commemorate this festival. These include the Gurav, Naique, Gaude, Dessai, Dhobi, Mahar, Chambar, Malo, Mest and Cumbar who are entrusted with following and keeping up this tradition. Morjim, Chopdem, Mandrem, Dhargal, Khorgao and Siolim are some of the villages famous for their celebration of Divzam.
 
The participants first observe a fast and thereafter visit the temple to pray. The temple priest takes the divzam and does the aarti before handing it back to them. Then the palki with the idol is taken in procession around the temple. Special food is cooked in the temple and a plate is kept before the deity. There are certain rituals to be followed by the participants. For instance, for first time performers, young girls who have not attained puberty are dressed as young brides to light the lamp.There’s also a special oil that is used to light the dizvam.Apart from the festival of Divzam, Diwali is the next major commemoration. This falls in the month of Kartik and is a celebration of Lord Rama’s victory over Ravana. Around the villages and towns the darkness of the night is dispelled by the tiny sparkling lights of diyas or earthen lamps. And of course there are the usual firecrackers.
 
# Ganesh Chaturthi
 
The most important and almost the national festival for Goan’s is the Ganesh Chaturthi known as ‘Chovoth’. The festivities run into several days, but minimum at least for one and half days, when puja of Gouri and Mahadev along with Ganapati, is performed. On the Chovoth day, in the morning or evening, a clay idol of Ganapati is brought home. Before that a matov (a small pandal above the place where the idol is place) is prepared with bunches of betel nut, coconut, bananas and branches of mango-trees being necessary ingredients of it. The puja of Ganapati goes on until mid-day. The puja is performed with the help of the pandit. On the second day, in the evening or at night, after performing the uttar puja of the image of Ganapati, it is taken in procession and immersed into a water body be it the sea, creek, river, lake or well. Before the idol is removed from its stand for immersion, it is besought for the welfare of the household and its members.
 
The festival of Chovath or Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated in Goa with pomp and gaiety as preparations for this grand celebration begins well in advance with houses spruced up with a new coat of paint besides decorations and multi-coloured lighting. With the community festival gaining prominence in recent times, people travel to different places to view some fascinating presentations of eco-friendly Ganesh idols. The villages of Cumbharjua, Marcel and St Estevan enjoy a just reputation for their giant images of Ganapati made from different raw materials.While the festival is celebrated for one-and-a-half days in most houses, it can stretch upto 11 days. In community celebrations, the idol is worshipped for 9 to 21 days.
 
The celebration at Cumbharjua is very significant as the Ganesh immersion is held on the seventh day on the occasion of Sangod. A villager, Vinod Phadte provided a short brief on how the Sangod festival came into existence, though it is difficult to pinpoint when the custom began. He says, “During Portuguese rule in Goa, the temple of Shri Shantadurga Cumbharjuwekarin was shifted from Corlim to Cumbharjua and then to its present location of Marcel. There was a businessman in Cumbharjua who was in financial difficulties. As a result, he left the Ganesh idol in the temple of the deity. So as a commemoration of the times, the idol is carried on a Devicho Sangod on the 7 th day and then immersed. This tradition led to the origin of the famous Cumbharjua Sangod festival which is celebrated anew every year with enthusiasm.”
 
It is a colourful procession of small canoes and boats carrying floats enacting some mythological scenes, very commonly showcased during the Shigmo parade in the towns of Goa. Sangod involves the tying of two canoes together with a platform or characters to perform some act. In recent times, social messages and political events are also portrayed, which are taken in the right sporting spirit without hurting anyone’s sentiments.People participate in large numbers at this festival with a sizable audience watching the different floats from the banks of Cumbharjua canal and from the bridge, all creating a festive atmosphere.
 
# Sao Joao
Viva Sao Joao!
June sets across Goa. The skies turn grey as the clouds empty themselves across the landscape. It is in this atmosphere that the village wells in Siolim become the centres of much joy and celebration. It’s the fest of Sao Joao.24 June is considered as the fest of St John the Baptist. Some old observances are linked to this festival . Among them, the new son-in-law is invited to the bride’s home to celebrate the feast, in another he is paraded around the village wearing a crown made from fresh flowers and wild berries. He then jumps into the closest well.
 
Today both young and old join in the the festivities of jumping into the well to the sounds of the ghumot and cansaim. They are offered sweets, fruits and feni. However, caution is advised if you’re a visitor and wish to join in the revelry. Jumping into wells is not for everyone.C Alvares’ ‘Sao Joao’ popularised this festival with its catchy tunes. It’s still sung today at such events. The day before, an effigy of Judev is burnt to symbolise the passing of the Old Testament.
 
There are a few places in Goa that are the hotspots for Sao Joao celebrations. In Siolim, the epicenter of the festival, throngs flock to witness the unique float parade along the river in front of the church.Locals get creative with their boats and deck them up in festive colours and themes related to nature. Entertainment programs run throughout the day to add to the celebratory atmosphere.Baga celebrates a special sangodd in which two boats, tied together with bamboos, signify union of body and soul. A stage is set up and a small altar dedicated to St John is made on the boat. In the afternoon, the villagers gather near the cross and then the participants step on board and move on towards Arpora before returning home.
 
# Saptah Celebrations
 
Goa  has been  blessed with  inter-religious harmony  with the various communities  coexisting peacefully. With its busy festive calendar, August is an auspicious month for all religious communities.The blessings of Goa’s gods and goddesses have been sought for a good crop, to ward off evil or  to start a  new chapter in life. In the past,  devotees travelled long distances to pray for protection against plagues and other pestilences.
 
Once such victory over a major disaster is celebrated every Nagpanchi in Vasco-da-Gama. The port town revives its old faith and gratitude to Lord Damodar who rescued their ancestors from the clutches of a dreaded disease. It’s unclear whether this was a plague or cholera.Popular lore dates the tradition to 1898 when the disease wreaked havoc across the town. Locals decided to pay obeisance at  the Lord Damodar temple in Zambaulim. The long, arduous journey was made and the prasad brought back with a coconut placed in the home of a prominent businessman, Anant Joshi.
 
The coconut was installed on July 28, 1898. The place today in the hall of the residence  has been turned  into a small temple.The increasing  faith in Lord Damodar by the locals led to the Saptah celebrations. A 24-hour non-stop bhajan is the highlight along with a week-long mela. The Maharudrap pooja on the  day after Nagpanchmi welcomes about 30 to 40 Brahmins to perform the auspicious rituals.
 
The activities for the Saptah begin with fervour  at 12.30 pm after Nagpanchami  with the offering of a   coconut to Lord Damodar by an elder of the Joshi family. The subsequent recitation of bhajans continues for 24 hours.At night a beautifully decorated tableaux (par) with mythological themes is brought in procession to the temple. The following day, the blessed coconut is paraded on the street along with dindi and chanting. The coconut  is then dipped into the sea before the procession returns home.
 
# Shigmo
 
Shigmo is one of the biggest festivals that falls either in March or April. A spring festival that is celebrated in music, song and dance. The commemorations have moved from the village centres to grand parades through the towns. Large crowds witness the spectacular performances. A float parade winds its way down the streets once the sun sets and the lights come on.The music is typically dhol, taasha and kasale. Usually the festivities revolve around the village Mand. The Mand-dev and folk dieties are an essential part of the traditions. Goa observes two varieties of Shigmo: Dhakla (younger) and Thorla (Elder). The first is celebrated in Tiswadi, Ponda, Calangute and Quepem while the other in Bardez, Sattari, Bicholim and Pernem.
 
In dance, the rombat form is popular. Here groups of dancers join in dressed in colourful attire. The elaborate attire and variety of instruments make this form special.Historic and comic elements combine to impart a rich and unique flavor to this festival.. Both these elements are evident in the different dance forms like Veeramel, Gade, Ghodemodni that highlight the heroic aspect. The comic aspects come through in the Zagor, Ranmalyem, Khele and Romat.Given its nature worship, the dance is dedicated to the gods and goddesses Shantaguru-Kuti, Santeri, Ravalnath, Shantadurga-Damodar and others. The festival also showcases the varied cultural aspects of Goa. Most of these dances are performed at the various Shigmo parades in towns across Goa. It’s a wonderful experience to witness these first hand as Goa’s traditions come alive. All these celebrations culminate at the frenzied climax of Holi, the festival of colours.